Attach a knit lining for a beanie

In the winter sometimes I want a hat with a little extra oomf to keep my ears warm, so I adda  knit lining band around the brim and attach it on the inside. Using the provisional cast on method to hold live stitches, I have knit up the lining of my hat and enough right side rows to match the lining size. Once I've done the prep rows I'm ready to attach my lining on the inside of the hat, knitting two stitches together using three needles. 

When you first attempt this method you might feel a little lost, but trust that the pieces come together in the end. Just hold onto your needles as you're folding the lining to match the right side of the brim - they like to fly off the needles sometimes. 

Another trick I learned is to work a purl row at the base of the brim, this will allow the lining to fold in and tuck into the inside of the hat easily. The alternative is that you'll end up with a roll, or a tube that doesn't lie flat. 

How to embroider a duplicate knit stitch

Embroidering stitches ontop of your knitting allows you to make amazing designs and skip the intarsia for simpler projects. In this video I'm knitting up a Purlsoho pattern, monogram hats for everyone, and I'm working an R for Rory, our little niece. 

This video shows how to embroider a duplicate knit stitch ontop of a finished stockinette piece. You'll need about 24 inches of working yarn cut from the skein, a tapestry needle, and a finished product that you want to embroider. It also helps to have a chart for working the pattern, I usually use a spreadsheet and I highlight where I want my stitches to be, this allows me to count easily.

PS: Purlsoho has a great written tutorial and charts for the alphabet for duplicating stitches. 

1x1 Ribbed cast on

Starting off the new year with a cast on method that honestly took me forever to learn. I kept getting my count lost when I first started out with this one and forgetting if that last stitch I made was a purl or a knit. Good thing I finally learned a way to tell the difference between the two on the cast on row, because for me, this one was a little tricky. Hopefully it's not for any of you! 

The 1x1 ribbed cast on is great for hats, cuffs, and sweater hems (if you don't feel like doing a 1x1 tubular caston). It gives the appearance of the rib going all the way down to the bottom edge of the work and it's stretchier than traditional cast ons. 

Have fun and let me know if you have any questions! 

Left and right cross cable knitting

Often I hear from beginner knitters that they love the look of cable knitting, but they're too intimidated to try it. I believe that cable knitting is accessible to all knitter levels, especially if you keep the pattern simple. The Traveling Cable Hat pattern from Purl Soho is a great way to dive into cable knitting. You can also get started with my Humboldt Cable Cowl, which has one big chunky cable running through the middle. It's knit using Madelinetosh ASAP, which is perfect for checking out new patterns because it knits up fast. Both of these patterns explain the cable cross without using a chart. 

When you're working with cables you'll need a cable needle. There are many different sizes and shapes of cable needles, and I got started using the Clover U shaped cable needles. They're plastic and have a really nice curve to them which makes it easy to hang and hold your stitches. In this video I'm using a set of straight bamboo cable needles (also from Clover). These cable needles have bumps on either end which hold the stitches on the needle, and they're good for working quickly by knitting directly off of the cable needle instead of transferring (a more advanced technique).  

Please let me know if you have any questions and enjoy cable knitting! 

Herringbone stitch example

This stitch makes a nice arrow pattern across your knitting. I love how it works up on chunkier yarns like the Madelinetosh ASAP that I used to make this swatch. If you use a smaller gauge then be sure to keep your tension pretty loose as this stitch loves to stay tight on your needles. Another tip is that while In this example I show you the right and wrong side of the pattern, it works really well when you're knitting in the round. It's perfect for impressing on big, chunky cowls. 

A-Frame hat bindoff

This bindoff is very similar to the kitchener stitch, except it's worked with three double pointed needles (dpns). I use it for working the horizontal top of an a-frame hat pattern. 

Materials: 

  • three double pointed needles
  • 14 inch tail of your working yarn

The set up can be a little intimidating, but just move carefully and hold onto the ends of your needles. Put an even number of stitches on the front and back needles; in my example I have 12 stitches total (6 on the front and 6 on the back). Cut a 14 inch tail of your working yarn. Then you're going to want to turn your hat inside out, which is the scary part. The reason to do this is so that your bind off is hidden on the inside of the hat once you're done. In my video I start with the hat wrong side out. 

Line up the front and back dpns and work the stitch by picking up one stitch from the front and one from the back. Knit two stitches like this and then use the front dpn to pull the first stitch over the second - creating your first bound off stitch. You can also wait to do the bind off at the end, which is what I did in the video.

Work all the stitches like this until you have one left and then tie it off normal. Turn your hat right side out, weave in the end and you're done!  

 

Provisional Caston

This cast on method is used when you want to leave stitches active so that you can work them later. It's genius for doing things like lined cuffs, or joining fabrics together. 

If you've never done this cast on method before, it's a good idea to practice once or twice (as with any new project). 

Materials: 

  • Waste yarn
  • Crochet hook
  • Working yarn (whatever your pattern calls for)
  • Knitting needles (whatever your pattern calls for)

To start out you'll want to make a crochet chain that is a few stitches more than what your pattern calls for it's cast on amount. My pattern calls for 110 stitches, so I made my chain 120 stitches long. Why? Sometimes while you're casting on the working yarn the chain starts to get tight and it's hard to find where the crochet bumps are, so I like to skip a few here and there. Since I always chain together at least 10 more than needed, I can do this without running out of crochet loops. 

When your chain is done, look for the crochet bumps side. The opposite side will sort of look like knitted v's. Locate the first bump and insert your knitting needle into it. Throw your working yarn over the needle and knit through the crochet bump. Continue knitting into the consecutive crochet bumps until you have the desired amount of knit stitches cast on. 

Turn your work (in my video I would turn and join in the round, careful not to twist my stitches) and start knitting normally. When you're read to, you'll insert a knitting needle into the active stitches and then rip out the crochet chain. Make one cut in the last stitch on the chain (careful not to cut out any of the knit stitches) and then pull away! It comes out magically. 

Continue knitting with the active stitches according to your pattern!